Tuesday, December 12, 2017

The Winter of 69

                   I was born in the summer of 1966 at the North Jetties, Jacksonville, Florida. I don't remember the day, but I do remember the wave.....in 1966 there was a beautiful point break just as you drove on to the beach after crossing the flats and I was born on the left break of that point break one summer day in 1966. I was forever hooked on surfing from that day and the North Jetties was THE place. However, in 1997 I moved to the N.C. mountains and essentially quit surfing although I never lost my love of, and interest in, surfing. Thus this Facebook page. Fast Forward.....I am now in the winter of my 69th year, I turn 70 next September, and the last few of those years has been consumed by a desire to return to surfing and the jetties. So....here I am.....on the beginning of a new journey--the goal? I would like to become one of the few over 70 surfers to hang ten at the jetties.
                   Can I do it? I guess we'll see.....but I'm not alone! Some others of my friends have recommitted to their interest in surfing and the jetties. They are Gary Palmer, with new knees, a rekindled flame, brother for life and best surfing buddy ever. Grady Pope, brother for life and best surfing buddy ever. Bobby Swift, real brother for life and best surfing buddy ever. Jason Smith, virtual son, pro surfer extraordinaire, and best surfing buddy ever.....always has been committed and the driver of my recommitment. Others have expressed interest in this journey.....like Barry Wunder, originally from Ft. George, early jetty surfer, has never lost his interest and still surfs there.
                    I will document our journey on these pages and whether we hang ten or not we will display surfing, and the jetties, as we know them in our lives.
                     And so, in this Winter of my 69th year, My friends and I restart a journey begun 50 plus years ago.......Come along on our trip!!!

https://www.facebook.com/lindsey.swift/videos/10209590545632261/












           

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